The Ifugao is a group that lives in a mountainous region of north-central Luzon around the of town Banaue. Also known as the Ifugaw, Ipugao, Yfugao, they are former headhunters who are famous for their spectacular mountain-hugging rice terraces.

After seeing Banaue’s rice terraces in postcards, travel guide books and even elementary social science textbooks, I have always dreamed of visiting the place some day. Nina and I had lived in Baguio City for a few years and initially we thought Banaue was relatively near only to discover that it was a good six hours away via the Ambuklao Road and nine hours via the Halsema Highway. Due to the nature of our work we had traveled extensively throughout Southeast Asia while based in Baguio but...

It was late in the morning when we arrived at the village entrance. It was almost an hour’s hike from the Saddle where the jeepney had left us in the hands of our wiry local guide. As we trudged the last few meters into the village and past the entrance, a sight until now hidden from our view suddenly emerged: an amphitheater of rice terraces almost yellow-green from ripening rice stalks.

Hiked up the volcano this morning to get the best view of the rice terraces of Canlaon City.

I had personally visited the Banaue rice terraces and the lesser-known amphitheatre-like Batad rice terraces, but Maligcong rice terraces is altogether different. Perhaps it’s the richness in colours or the overall ambience of the place, with its thin towering trees and foggy mornings.